The main reason for the difficulty in removing the riding bolts after installation is due to the excessively long light holes (180 mm) on the balance shaft housing. During operation, dirt and mud can accumulate in the gap between the riding bolts and the light holes. Over time, this dirt dries and hardens, causing the bolts to become tightly packed with the housing, making removal challenging.
One of the key factors contributing to this issue is the length of the light holes once the balance shaft housing is installed. To address this, one effective solution is to reduce the length of these light holes. A practical design modification involves removing the central portion of the light hole, which helps prevent the accumulation of dirt and makes the bolts easier to remove during maintenance. This structural improvement not only simplifies the removal process but also reduces maintenance costs, decreases labor intensity, and improves overall efficiency.
In response to the difficulty in removing the rear riding bolts, a specialized removal device was designed. The following is a brief description of the working principle and operation steps of the device:
a. Use a jack to support the frame and then loosen and remove the nut from the rear riding bolt.
b. Attach the removal device to either the inside or outside of the balance shaft housing, and position jacks 4 and 5 as indicated.
c. Apply pressure to jack 4, which will push the riding bolt upward. Periodically strike the top of the bolt with a hammer to help dislodge it from its tight fit.
Before repairing the leaf spring, it's recommended to pour some water along the rear riding bolt to moisten the soil in the gap between the bolt and the housing. This will help loosen the dirt and make the bolt easier to remove.
Regarding the Steyr double rear axle balance shaft housing improvements and the rear spring riding bolt removal device, the text mentions that issues such as cylinder injector damage, stuck needle valves, cracks, or burned fuel injection heads can cause diesel to enter the cylinder without proper atomization, leading to oil contamination in the sump and an increase in oil level. This often results in increased engine vibration, reduced power, and excessive black smoke from the exhaust. To identify the faulty injector, the cylinder stop method can be used, followed by replacement of the defective component.
Another common issue is hydraulic oil mixing into the engine oil. If there’s no visible external leakage, but the hydraulic oil level in the tank keeps dropping and needs frequent refilling, it may indicate a damaged oil seal on the steering pump shaft. This allows hydraulic oil to leak into the gear chamber and eventually into the oil pan, raising the oil level. The solution is to replace the oil seal or the entire pump assembly.
While the presence of water, diesel, or hydraulic oil in the engine oil is relatively rare, it’s important to systematically eliminate each possibility using the methods described above.
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